I don't know how they call call this a CLASSICĭid you use the Wolff full power or reduced power mainspring? A full power will reduce and smooth trigger pull while still providing reliable ignition the reduced power mainspring can result in light strikes without other action work and proper round selection. There is no firing pin like older models and trying to improve the trigger with Wolf Springs gave me over 60% light hits They are missing out on some sweet shooting revolvers.Īn old thread but I bought a model 10-14 and don't like the trigger at all compared to a model 10 I bought in 94 and then like a fool sold it There are a lot of people who despise the new MIM and IL S&W's, but that is their choice. I really wrung out my modified 10-14 and it has never had a FTF with any ammo. If the DA pull is too heavy for your taste, a lighter mainspring and an extended firing pin will slick them up really nice and not sacrifice reliability. MIM parts are more uniformly made, so aftermarket parts will just drop in. I happen to like a firm, even DA pull so new S&W's really work for me. The new S&W's will have a heavier DA pull but it is more smooth, if that makes any sense S&W moved the seat for the mainspring up a little to add more power to the hammer, to make the frame mounted firing pin more reliable. You could look around for an older one and probably get it for $300 or so, but I like the MIM guns and think they have great DA pulls. I'm a huge fan of the "new gen" S&W revolvers, but I do own many older ones too. I also have a -7 that is one of my favorites.
It shoots rings around my -3, and has a better action. My -8 looks like it was holster carried for a few years and maybe saw a handful of rounds. Ohio Corrections just got rid of thousands of them and the market is flooded with used, hardly fired 64's. He said he's getting more but I stopped checking after a few months. Used 64's from all eras are all over the place right now, there was a dealer on GunBroker who had like 200 of them from -3's up to -8's, I got a -8 from him for like $320. It's the first time I have ever seen a blued model sell for more than it's stainless equivalent.mostly because anything in the "Classic" line costs more now. The blue holds up well, I carried both my 10-14's a bit in a leather IWB holster and saw no blue wear.ġ0-14's cost more than their stainless counterpart, the 64-8.I have seen new 64-8's go for $550 or so. They are not quite as easy to find new these days, but like was said, they won't be collectible but they are excellent shooters. The only difference between the "Classic" model and the "standard" is they added the same $20 Altamont grips that I did to my 10-14, instead of the rubber Uncle Mikes, and added $100 to the price.S&W no longer makes 10-14's as standard production, instead they make batches of them for the "Classic" line. I love my 10-14's and would never part with them.Īll of the 10-14's are Heavy Barrel, Round butt 4" models. This is not so easy to do with the older, more fitted S&W's. Leave it stock and it's a great gun, but they are super easy to "slick up" with drop in parts. $450 is a good deal for a new 10-14, less than $400 would be even better.I have seen trade-in 10-10's and 10-11's that look like they were dragged behind a truck go for $300, so a brand new 10 from any era for less than $400 is a steal. The 4" Model HB is one of my favorite all time firearms. This gun will drive tacks, and it's super slick.Ībove it is my 10-8, and I also have a 10-6. I am undecided on grips, and I want to have a red insert added to the front sight blade. I added Wilson Combat springs, an extended C&S firing pin, a trigger stop inside the rebound slide, and a MIM target hammer and trigger.I also used "The Plug" and removed the IL. It's a very good shooter and every bit the equal of the older 10's. I left this one stock, it was a security trade in, all I did was add Altamont dymondwood magnas and left it alone.
I'm also a Model 10 fanatic, and I needed a 10-14 because, well, it's a Model 10!
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